Famous Fat Dave: The Hungry Cabbie

April 22, 2006

The Boogie Down

Filed under: Bronx, Fruits and Veggies, Italian, Hunt's Point — Administrator @ 6:18 am

The Bronx can be a scary place.  I have to admit that, even after more than four years of driving a cab, I don’t really know my way around it.  Hunt’s Point, the desolate peninsula bulging out of the borough east of the Bruckner Expressway, might be the scariest part of the Bronx.  Warehouses and auto glass stores seem to be all that there is along the neigborhood’s two wide avenues.  Countless eighteen-wheelers rumble up and down the streets day and night, outnumbered only in the wee hours by the chunky, sassy hookers that made Hunt’s Point Avenue famous as “Ho Avenue.” 

Last night, sometime during the smallest of those wee hours, I picked up a fare in Harlem who was on his way to his job as a truck driver for the Hunt’s Point Terminal Market.  He was late, in such a hurry that he was willing to take a cab to work, something he told me he very rarely does.  But he still had time for breakfast.  At the end of Hunt’s Point Avenue, just before the left turn for the Terminal Market, my fare asked me to wait and jumped out of the cab for a meatball hero and a side of broccoli rabe. 

It’s that kind of blue collar breakfast that keeps the proletariat down, but for me, it was dinner time.  With a knowing look in his eye as he devoured his hero, he told me to go back and get anything with broccoli rabe.  I trusted him not just because he worked in the area, but he had the kind of thick Italian accent you get when you are born in Napoli, not New York.  With time to kill, I pulled up amongst the ample parking and walked into Fratelli Pizza Cafe.  A couple cold pizzas sat on the counter, so I asked Joe, the counterman, what to order with broccoli rabe.   

rabe.jpg

(Joe, making a fresh pie just before dawn)

He told me to get the broccoli rabe hero.  I figured the bitter leafy vegetable would be too much for my palate without anything to marry it to.  So I got a broccoli rabe and sausage hero and mozzarella sticks. 

rabe2.jpg

            (I put that fork to work)  

The hero was ridiculously large and so scrumptous.  And I was wrong.  The rabe could have carried the hero on its own without a problem.  I ate half of the rabe with a fork because it was so fresh and garlicy and not too bitter.  I’d never heard of a broccoli rabe hero (nor had I heard of a 24 hour a day full Italian eatery).  The sausage and mozzarella sticks were delicious as well.  So late at night, in the roughest part of the Boogie Down Bronx, I was blindsided by so fresh and unique a meal.  Joe told me they stay open around the clock because of all the truck drivers like my fare who roam the neighborhood.  They serve the rabe because its so good.

Fratelli Pizza Cafe (open from midnight on Sunday until Friday afternoon, I wouldn’t want you risking your neck to go when it’s not even open) 402 Hunt’s Point Ave, The Bronx

Check out http://www.famousfatdave.com for a chuckle or to book an eating tour     

 

2 Comments »

  1. Just wanted to drop you a line thanking you for this blog.
    I LOVE NYC. Every chance I get to visit, I am there in a heartbeat - my dad’s from the city, though he moved to Toledo, OH (where I am) many years ago before starting a family…. Still, Manhattan seems like a second home to me in a lot of ways… one of my favorite places in the world. my bands played there every chance we could get, structuring entire tours JUST so we could play cbgb (and get underpaid), or when i can i visit family in larchmont….
    my favorite part?
    the food. hands down.
    People, if they haven’t been there, don’t understand the incredible experience that is eating in Manhattan - you can find cheap diners with incredible food all over the place, nice italian joints in the middle of the bowery, great noodle eateries in and around the much-vaunted (and, for me, loved) chinatown…
    and the pizza… i firmly believe that if a person lives his entire life without a slice of real NY pizza, they’ve completely missed the point… same goes for a hotdog at 8pm in the rain on a cold spring day..
    Thanks for bringing this a bit closer, and drive safely!!

    Comment by Jeremy — May 5, 2006 @ 8:02 am

  2. […] Unfortunately, they cut a scene showing those delicious Little Neck Clams Possilipo at Artie’s in City Island. But they’ve got great shots of the broccoli rabe at Fratelli’s in Hunt’s Point, the fried calzone at Louie and Ernie’s in Pelham Bay, the Italian Ice next door at Teresa’s, and the cannoli at Madonia Brothers on Arthur Ave. Classic food porn. Enjoy. […]

    Pingback by The Hungry Cabbie: The Eating Adventures of a NYC Yellow Cabbie » Boot Of The Bronx — May 6, 2007 @ 11:35 pm

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